From shoreline to open water: a diver’s guide to Indonesia

  • Stubble & Co
  • Tips & Ideas, Travel

In Indonesia, life happens in and around the ocean.

It’s home to one of the most biodiverse marine environments in the world: raw, expansive, and constantly shifting. At the heart of the Coral Triangle, Indonesia is widely considered as one of the most rewarding diving locations in the world.

We spoke with Marine Biologist, Photographer, and Filmmaker Noemi Merz, who shares her perspective on the top diving spots to head to across the country. Her work is shaped by time spent in the water, where she documents ecosystems and shares ocean stories through her camera.

With Lombok as her base, Noemi covers where to go, how to plan, what to pack, and what to expect.

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Where to go

“My personal favourite dive destinations in Indonesia are Alor and southern Raja Ampat (the Misool area).

Alor is a truly special place with plenty of diving opportunities. Due to slightly cooler waters, the reefs are extremely pristine and healthy. You’ll find amazing wall dives (along a vertical underwater cliff face) as well as beautiful shallow reef sites.

Diving around Misool in southern Raja Ampat is also exceptional. The island scenery alone is already stunning, with tropical limestone islands surrounded by turquoise waters. But what really stands out is the sheer biomass; there is so much fish life everywhere you look, it feels like being in a real-life aquarium. If you’re lucky, you might even encounter manta rays in this area.

For more budget-friendly options that don't require an expensive liveaboard (a purpose-built boat where divers live for several days), Sumbawa and Komodo are also great choices.”

How to plan

“For diving in Alor, I highly recommend Nautika Dive Alor. It’s a fantastic dive centre with great accommodation, and they’ll take you to some of the best dive sites in the area. I had an amazing experience with them, and Alor will always have a special place in my heart. It does require a bit of travel to get there, but it’s absolutely worth it.

When it comes to Raja Ampat, you can either choose a liveaboard or stay in local accommodation, which is mostly made up of small, simple homestays. Personally, I love staying in those wooden bungalows over the water and having time to explore the islands.

That said, some dive sites, especially in Misool, are much more accessible by liveaboard, and you’re able to cover a lot more ground.

I think a mix of both is ideal: spending a few nights in a local homestay, for example, in central Raja Ampat, and then joining a liveaboard to reach more remote areas such as Misool.

In general, I would always recommend doing your research beforehand to make sure you choose an ethical and responsible liveaboard operator.”

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What to pack

“When travelling in Indonesia, especially to more remote diving destinations, I always recommend bringing your own dive mask. Even though most places offer rentals, having a mask that fits properly and doesn’t fog up makes a big difference.

A small dry bag is also useful, especially for day trips or snorkelling, to keep your camera, phone, and other valuables dry.

If you’re visiting remote islands and have some extra space in your luggage, it’s always a nice idea to bring school supplies for local children; things like colouring books or pencils are greatly appreciated.

Another fun idea is to bring a Polaroid camera. Taking photos with the local community and being able to gift them a printed photo straight away is always something special, especially for kids.

For underwater photographers, I highly recommend bringing a setup that allows for both wide-angle (to photograph reefscapes and big schools of fish) and macro (for all the incredible critters Indonesia has to offer). And definitely don’t forget external strobes to capture the full colours of the underwater world.”

What to expect

“Indonesia has an incredible amount to offer, with a huge variety of marine environments. The biomass and biodiversity underwater are unmatched and will genuinely leave you in awe.

In places like Raja Ampat, for example, you’ll find exceptionally high biodiversity. You can encounter thousands of reef fish species, hawksbill and green sea turtles, large schools of jacks fish, and manta rays in some areas.

From the boat, you can also spot dolphins or even whales, all set against the backdrop of stunning limestone islands.”

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